Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season

Nick Heil

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Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season

Dark Summit The True Story of Everest s Most Controversial Season In early May a young British climber named David Sharp lay dying near the top of Mount Everest while forty other climbers walked past him on their way to the summit A week later Lincoln Hall a

  • Title: Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season
  • Author: Nick Heil
  • ISBN: null
  • Page: 421
  • Format: Kindle Edition
  • In early May 2006, a young British climber named David Sharp lay dying near the top of Mount Everest while forty other climbers walked past him on their way to the summit A week later, Lincoln Hall, a seasoned Australian climber, was left for dead near the same spot Hall s death was reported around the world, but the next day he was found alive after spending the night oIn early May 2006, a young British climber named David Sharp lay dying near the top of Mount Everest while forty other climbers walked past him on their way to the summit A week later, Lincoln Hall, a seasoned Australian climber, was left for dead near the same spot Hall s death was reported around the world, but the next day he was found alive after spending the night on the upper mountain with no food and no shelter.If David Sharp s death was shocking, it was not singular despite unusually good weather, ten others died attempting to reach the summit that year In this meticulous inquiry into what went wrong, Nick Heil tells the full story of the deadliest year on Everest since the infamous season of 1996 He introduces Russell Brice, the outfitter who has done than anyone to provide access to the summit via the mountain s north side and who some believe was partially responsible for Sharp s death As climbers attempt the summit each year, Heil shows how increasingly risky expeditions and unscrupulous outfitters threaten to turn Everest into a deadly circus.Written by an experienced climber and outdoor writer, Dark Summit is both a riveting account of a notorious climbing season and a troubling investigation into whether the pursuit of the ultimate mountaineering prize has spiraled out of control.

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      Posted by:Nick Heil
      Published :2019-01-27T22:25:36+00:00

    One thought on “Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season

    1. Eric_W on said:

      Well, finally getting around to making a few notes about this book which I read at the same time as a bunch of other Everest-summiting books. All are pretty good, and I'm about to order some others I ran across, including K2, The Savage Mountain,K2 Triumph and Tragedy, The Last Step The American Ascent of K2, and The Endless Knot K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny: i.e it's time to switch mountains. The literature of mountaineering has evolved. It used to be they were stories of teamwork and ass [...]

    2. Christopher on said:

      What I've learned: mountain climbers are crazy. Really crazy. Everest used to be my Everest. In my youth, I'd think, "someday I'll conquer that, the nearly unconquerable". The thought of climbing an icy mountain to the highest point on Earth was exhilarating to me, as was the idea of pushing myself to my physical limits, to possibly come back with fewer fingers. But I've no ambition or desire for that anymore. Not after reading this book.And the thing is, climbing Everest isn't even that remarka [...]

    3. Mazola1 on said:

      Mount Everest is a cold and inhospitable place. After what happened on the mountain in 2006, a lot of people were saying the same thing about the hearts of many of those who climb Mount Everest. Ten people died on Mount Everest that year, but no death provoked more controversy and outrage than that of David Sharp. Sharp is remembered in the public consciousness as the young British climber who "lay dying near the top of Mount Everest while forty other climbers walked past him on their way to the [...]

    4. Karen Terrell on said:

      I love Nick Heil’s writing. The details, perspective, and voice he brings to *Dark Summit* - a reflection on Everest’s controversial 2006 climbing season – are thought-provoking and compelling. I could not put this book down (and I don’t mean this figuratively – I literally had to finish this book before I could go to sleep). Heil’s word choice is exquisite. When comparing the mountaineering of earlier years with modern climbing, he describes “the tweedy gentlemen climbers of yeste [...]

    5. Heather on said:

      I wish I could add a half-star. The book was good. Riveting, full of fascinating stuff. But it was confusing. The layout for a book like this is always going to be tricky, but there's way too much going back and forth in time. There was too much information given about the other hikers on the various expeditions, and most of them didn't have a real role in the story. I found myself relying on a chart in the beginning showing who belonged with what expedition company, and sometimes I had to use t [...]

    6. LibraryCin on said:

      In 2006, Mount Everest saw it's deadliest season since 1996 (the year Jon Krakauer wrote about in Into Thin Air). But this time around, weather was not the cause. One man died after being passed by numerous climbers while he was still alive; another was left behind when they thought he was a lost cause (he was “left for dead”, similar to Beck Weathers in 1996); miraculously, he lived. Another really good mountaineering book. The beginning, while looking back at history and – at the same ti [...]

    7. Chad Sayban on said:

      More reviews at The Story Within The StoryBritish climber David Sharp lays along a ridge near the top of the highest point in the world. He is dying, but he isn't deadt. Still, forty other climbers walk past him on their way to the summit and not one of the stops to help. A week later, veteran climber Lincoln Hall is also left for dead in the same spot. His death is reported around the world. However, the next day he is found still alive and heroically brought down off Everest. He survives. In a [...]

    8. Roger on said:

      Nick Heil is not a mountaineer, he is a journalist and writer, and with that knowledge and the quote on the front cover of Dark summit ("On Everest morality stops at 8000 metres"), I wasn't holding great hopes for this title. Ever since Jon Krakauer's Into thin air, there has been a genre of Everest books that concern themselves with the ethics of modern guided trips to the top of the world, most of which haven't reached the high bar set by Krakauer, and some of which have been as shameful as th [...]

    9. Lil on said:

      Picked this up at 10 last night and didn't put it down until I was done. What I especially enjoy about reading about Everest is just how bloody uncomfortable it always makes me. Like several people say, morality is different on the mountain. And it is, but should it be? I'm tempted to be curmudgeonly with Sir Edmund and close the mountain to one expedition/year, with the entire focus on not losing anyone. At the same time, reading the stories of these people who are driven to get to the top, I k [...]

    10. Colin Birge on said:

      A follow-up of sorts to Into Thin Air, Jon Krakauer's classic account of the deadly 1996 climbing season on Mount Everest. Nick Heil covers the equally deadly 2006 season, especially the controversial death of David Sharp. Over 40 climbers climbed past Sharp as he lay dying near the summit after spending a night alone on the mountain. Heil argues that it was understandable: at so high an altitude, rescue was virtually impossible, and Sharp had chosen to climb with no partners and no support.As e [...]

    11. Anne-Marie on said:

      I get drawn into mountaineering books at certain times and this was another one of those phases. When I heard of the Englishman was passed by 40 climbers on Everest I was appalled. How could so many people be so inhumane? Recently I found this book and thought, this might explain how this could happen. In reading it I felt the author gave an objective as possible account of the circumstances surrounding this awful tragedy and I did feel I understood how this man was left to die by 40 people.I st [...]

    12. Max on said:

      I was surprised by this one. I picked it up from the library to get some extra contextual information on the events of 2006 (since the Discovery channel TV show was so sadly dumbed down), and I ended it up liking it as much as any mountaineering book I've read. Heil gives some great historical and cultural context that has been missing from lots of other accounts of climbing the world's highest peak, and has an admirable commitment to fairness (best displayed in his afterword) that much writing [...]

    13. Jim on said:

      Books about high-elevation mountaineering are about death. Either the suffering of or escape from. Sure, there is a lot about courage, preparation, luck, cruel mother nature, and such, but if there is not death, then it seems few climbers will write about it, especially if there is not some controversy to throw in. And Everest has provided a lot of death and controversy, as well as mystery, to be sure. Herewith another account of climbing gone astray, but in this instance there is a mix of mirac [...]

    14. L on said:

      Heil does not, and cannot, answer the question of where to draw the line of climbers' and guides' responsibility to help other climbers and/or climbers not under their corporate wing. It isn't clear whether David Sharp could have been saved, though it does seem clear that climbers passed him, saw the shape he was in, and kept going, their eagerness to summit outweighing their humanity. The explanations/rationalizations/excuses are there. For the most part, these folks are cold, both literally an [...]

    15. Sam Page on said:

      In spring 1996, over ten climbers died in a storm while climbing Mt. Everest, including the accomplished leaders of two commercial expeditions, Rob Hall and Scott Fischer. The story of that terrible season was told, not without controversy, by Jon Krakauer in his best-selling book Into Thin Air. In spring 2006, over ten climbers again died climbing Mt. Everest, but this time in relatively fine weather. Nick Heil explains what went wrong in his book Dark Summit: The True Story of Mt. Everest's Mo [...]

    16. Richard on said:

      Nick Heil writes well about this controversial subject. The subject is how climbers are often 'left' to die high up on Everest and others will walk by them. After having read a few of these kind of books being a very keen armchair mountaineer it is a familiar pattern of driven people taking huge risks and the inevitable consequences.The stories can still be heart wrenchingly sad though.I think that if you haven't been up that high and experienced the mental and physical exhaustion and stress the [...]

    17. Chris on said:

      Engrossing detail account of the 2006 season on Everest. You know the season where the media focused on the people who died after others climbed by?Heil does an excellent job of showing the reader what extactly the sitution was and raises questions of the rights and wrongs of the choices made. While he is sympathic to the climbers, he is not awed and does call into question stories that do not seem right.

    18. Ob-jonny on said:

      This is a great book about climbing and it reminds me of Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer. It is an intense story like Into Thin Air but of a different season and a different group of people. This book focuses on the phenomenon of climbers being left behind or walked past by people not checking to see if they're okay. It seems so horrific on the surface but once you really dig into the story you realize how complicated the situation is. A casual observer would consider those people walking by to be [...]

    19. Barbara Deer on said:

      I read Dark Summit during the space of a few hours - literally could not put it down. Part of that enthusiasm is due to my own fascination with Everest, but a larger part was simply due to the fact that this is a completely absorbing book about the deadly 2006 climbing season, from the point of view of one intrepid mountaineering company. Heil is a wonderful writer - he manages to take the dryness out of his historical details, and he brings his characters wonderfully, visually to life much as a [...]

    20. Janette Fleming on said:

      Everest - the highest mountain in the world and the ultimate climbing challenge. In 2006, 11 people died attempting to reach the summit, the most fatalities since 1996. But unlike 1996, 2006 saw no surprise blizzard, only the constant dangers posed by unstable ice, merciless cold, thin air - and human nature. Nick Heil tells the shocking true stories of David Sharp, a young British solo climber, who was passed by 40 mountaineers as he lay dying on the slopes of the mountain, and Lincoln Hall who [...]

    21. Sharon Watkins on said:

      Why people keep going to Everest to face, at best, unimaginable discomfort and danger, and at worst, frostbite and attendant amputations, cerebral and pulmonary edema, and death, is a mystery to me. But as a reader, I am glad they do, because it means that books like this get written. Nick Heil does for the disastrous 2006 season on Everest what Jon Krakauer did for the 1996 season: he lays out the elements of a catastrophe in a concise, compelling story. 2006 was the year that some 40 climbers, [...]

    22. Don on said:

      I liked this book, and thought it to be a good summary of the issues & controversies of the 2006 Everest expeditions. The author does a good job of helping you to understand the challenges that climbers face, and the growing problem that commercialization is creating -- that is, drawing people who have the money to attend an expedition but not the training, experience and mindset of what is needed to conquer Everest. It seems that Everest is drawing unqualified people for the purpose of achi [...]

    23. Heidi Willis on said:

      It's hard for me to be unbiased about a book on Everest. It is the one subject I devour without a critical eye. I've read a huge amount of books on the subject, and though some books are better written than others, they all bring a unique perspective that's hard to critique.This book might stand on the 2006 climbing controversy, but in doing so, it spends a considerable amount of pages up front delving into the history of both the mountain and the biography of some of the significant people in t [...]

    24. Jerry Murphy on said:

      I have read numerous books on mountaineering, and have a fascination in particular with Everest. Any works I have consumed in the past have always been written from the point of view of individuals overcoming the hardships and obstacles of the route to the top which, inevitably culminates with them succeeding and then living to tell the tale. The more I read, the more I believe, maybe, just maybe, I would be able to do it.Dark Summit gives considerable weight to the other side of the argument. I [...]

    25. Nicholas Morris on said:

      This book tells of the deadliest climbing season since the infamous season of 1996. Nick Heil describes the difficult trek up the infamous Mt. Everest which stands at an astonishing 29,029 ft. The treacherous climb consists of dizzying altitudes, crevices that can be up to hundreds of feet wide, and the ever present threat of avalanches. The scary situations that the climbers face on their way up the mountain made me realize that climbing a mountain that size is completely different than I thoug [...]

    26. Sarah on said:

      I am always looking for a GREAT book about Everest. This book almost hit the mark. Nick Heil recounts stories from several people who were on the mountain in 2006 when 11 people died causing a media whirlwind that equaled the frenzy after the 1996 tradegy. The book outlines the Discovery Channel series that was being shot during this same time. I was wildly interested in the Discovery Channel show and was surprised by the additional drama unfolding on the mountain that the show completely left o [...]

    27. Marsha on said:

      DARK SUMMIT dealt with the tragic and controversial 2006 season of climbing on Everest's North face. I admit to being fascinated with Everest - and mountain climbing in general. I watched the Discovery Channel's documentary of this 2006 climb (and the 2007 as well)so I was familiar with the events and remembered a lot of the climbers' names. Nick Heil also goes into a little bit of the history of Everest and climbing on the North face - a less populated and, technically, more challenging climb t [...]

    28. Holly Rusak on said:

      I was torn between three and four stars. I could barely put the book down - figuratively, as I was reading on my Kindle. But I think reading electronically may have worked against me. Much like Jon Krakauer's "Into Thin Air," this book juggle numerous characters. I often got confused on the cast. Also the interweaving of historical references both added to the context as well as the confusion. I think i would have followed along better if I could have more easily flipped back between chapter hea [...]

    29. Jaye on said:

      Non-fiction is not my first choice of reading. My husband had been reading Dark Summit and reading passagees to me. After he was finished I picked it up just to read the intro and never put it down. Heil's prose had me in the first paragraph. The journey he takes you on leads you through the 2006 expedition up Everest; you feel every step the climbers take; every breath they draw; every death they see. Everest has become over used, I believe, and the money made on it is obscene. Does the greed e [...]

    30. Mandy Spejcher on said:

      This was really interesting for me and probably anyone else into armchair mountaineering. I watched the Everest show that was filmed during the 2006 season, and it was really fascinating to read more about what happened and the things that went on that I wasn't able to see. There was so much more drama than I realized! I was worried the author would take the side of the general media and public about the events that happened during this season, but I was happy to see that he seemed unbiased and [...]

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